Learn Bespoke Sewing: 7 Measurements To A Basic Bodice Pattern

Learn Bespoke Sewing:
7 Measurements To A Basic Bodice Pattern
Part One of Developing Patterns Ala Kimenink

 

Disclaimer: Kimenink do not claim to be sewing pros in any sense of the word.

If a professional would follow the easy steps we’ve developed to pattern making…

Well, let’s just say their noses would be so high in the air they wouldn’t even see us.

But there are people who have asked us how we do it.

There just might be someone out there wishing for the same beginner’s path to bespoke that we employ.

So we’ll open ourselves up to criticism (and we don’t mind trying new tricks),

and just put this out here.

 

Learn Bespoke Sewing

 

 

Step One: Tools You’ll Need to Learn Bespoke Sewing

These are our favorite brands and tools:

• 1 ” Tru-grid pattern drafting fabric
• Measuring tape
• Sewist’s scissors
• Pen or pencil
• 18″x 2″ clear grid ruler
• Optional: French curve set. I never use them. Go here to find a set.

 

 

Step Two: Measure

There’s 7 main measurements we get before we begin making a bodice pattern.

1. From shoulder to shoulder across the back. (This will be referred to as MEASUREMENT A.)
2. From shoulder to neckline. (B)
3. Front neck at shoulder to waist center. (C)
4. Back neck at shoulder to back waist center. (D)
5. Around the bust. (E)
6. Around the waist (F)
7. The side from the waist to the armhole. (Which is typically 1″ below the arm.) (G)

 

 

Step Three: Mark Your Pattern

We’ll number the steps for your convenience.

1. Cut a piece of grid fabric about 24″ long and 20″ wide.
2. Cut the grid in half the long way.
3. Mark one grid as FRONT BLOUSE. Use the straight, uncut side of your grid as your CENTER FRONT CUT ON FOLD.
4. Divide MEASUREMENT A in half. Measure from the Center Front, about 6″ down from the top of your grid fabric, then place a dot from there using that half measurement. If MEASUREMENT A is 16, the dot for your shoulder seam will be 8″ from the CENTER FRONT.
5. With the ruler, draw your SHOULDER SEAM from the shoulder dot, using MEASUREMENT B. This line will rise about 2″ from the shoulder dot. We’ll adjust shoulder slope later if necessary.
6. Mark MEASUREMENT D from the neck at the shoulder to the center waist. Allow the tape measure to follow your curves, because you need the length your bust adds. This dot is CENTER WAIST.
7. Mark MEASUREMENT E: Divide the bust measurement by 4. Use that number to mark the underarm width. This mark will be adjusted later, so don’t worry about exact placement. If you have a large bust, take another measurement here. Measure from the neck at the shoulder to the tip of your bust. Place a mark on the pattern. That widest measurement across your pattern will be across this mark.
8. Mark MEASUREMENT F: Divide the waist measurement by 4 and place a dot that distance from the CENTER WAIST. This is SIDE WAIST, known as dot F.
9. Mark MEASUREMENT G: From dot F, measure up to the width of the bust, and create dot G. Dot G is the beginning of the ARMHOLE and the top of the UNDERARM SEAM.

 

What your pattern looks like now:

 

 

Okay, so you can see the pattern isn’t done. It doesn’t have the neck line or the armhole.

We’ll work on that in the next lesson.

You did it!
You’ve completed Lesson 1 of Learn Bespoke Sewing.
Next time: Finishing the Front Bodice.