Create a Raglan Bodice Pattern From Your Basic Bespoke Pattern

Today we want to show you how we create a Raglan Bodice Pattern from our basic bespoke pattern.

 

In these posts we showed you how to make a bespoke Bodice Pattern, made exactly to your measurements:

Learn Bespoke Sewing: 7 Measurements To A Basic Bodice Pattern

Develop Your Personal Pattern: Bespoke Sewing Part 2

Back Bodice Pattern DIY: Learn Bespoke Sewing Part 3

 

Tools To Draft Patterns:

These are our favorite brands and tools:

• 1 ” Tru-grid pattern drafting fabric
• Measuring tape
• Sewist’s scissors
• Pen or pencil
• 18″x 2″ clear grid ruler
• Optional: French curve set. I never use them. Go here to find a set.

 

 

 

Create a Raglan Bodice Pattern

Get out your Basic Bespoke Blouse Pattern. (We haven’t made a sleeve yet, but you won’t need an actual sleeve pattern to draft a raglan sleeve pattern.)

Smooth out about 1 yard of pattern grid fabric. Pin the Front and Back Basic Bodice pieces to the grid fabric, underneath so you can follow the lines to draw new pattern lines.

 

Here’s how to follow the Basic Bodice, then change it where necessary:

1. The dark gray is the Basic Bodice Pattern. The light gray is your new Raglan Bodice Pattern.
2. Trace all around the Basic Bodice Front and Back Pattern pieces, except the shoulder seams and parts of the neckline and armholes.

 

Raglan Bodice Front Pattern

1. For the Bodice Front Pattern (first image) measure the front neckline at the seam lines, from shoulder seam to center front.
2. Divide this measurement into thirds.
3. Mark the neckline 1/3 of that length from the shoulder seam.
4. Draw a line from that mark to the beginning of the underarm curve.

 

 

The Raglan Bodice Back Pattern

1. For the Bodice Back Pattern (second image) measure the back neckline at the seam lines, from shoulder seam to center back.
2. Divide this measurement in half.
3. Mark the neckline at that half way point.
4. Draw a line from that mark to the beginning of the underarm curve.
5. Add seams to the Raglan Front and Raglan Back on the slanted edges to the underarm side seams. It’s your choice on how wide to make these seams. For knits we make 3/8″ seams. However, for linen or other non-stretch fabrics we make 5/8″ seams.

 

 

Raglan Sleeve Pattern

1. For the Raglan Sleeve Pattern (third image) place the new Raglan Front and Back Pattern pieces on the grid fabric as shown, with the center front and center back approximately at the center of the sleeve length. Be sure the underarm curve ends line up horizontally.
2. Measure around your upper arm and add 1 inch to that length. This is how far apart the sleeve underarm seams should be from each other.
3. Measure around your arm where you want the hem of the sleeve, add 1″, then mark at the corner of the hem and underarm seams.
4. The top of the sleeve is a little more complicated. On your original Regular Bodice Pattern Front and Back, measure from the raglan marks on the neckline to the seam line of the shoulder. Place the Raglan Front and Raglan Back neckline edges that distance apart.
5. Then draw a curved line from the two neckline edges, across the shoulder of the Raglan Sleeve.
6. Add a seam to the new curved neckline.

 

 

 

 

 

There’s your bespoke Raglan Bodice Pattern

You can add a skirt to the bodice to make an A-line Raglan Dress Pattern.

When we sew knits we almost always make them without waist seams, and the Raglan design is one of our favorites.

Feel free to save this post for the day you want a bespoke Raglan pattern!